tirsdag 12. februar 2013

Hubble, bubble, boil and don't snubble!

So on to closer contact with the volcanic world, not viewing a steaming crater from afar, but walking among bubbling and grumbling mud pools, steam jets furiously blowing from holes in the ground, all set in tropical forestland.... And all part of the Rincon and Miravalle complexes, beautiful stratiform volcanoes rising to 2,000 m, their craters often hidden in the clouds. Their forested flanks the sites of intense geothermal energy, with superheated steam temperatures of up to 2,500 degrees Centigrade. So these two areas provide about 25 % of CR's energy needs, with export to Nicaragua and Panama too.


We started at La Pailas Ranger Station, with a sign saying that the trail up to the Rincon crater was closed because of volcanic activity, the last (moderate) eruption of ash and mud being in September 2011. I hadn't planned to attempt the 16 km round trip with a 1,000 m climb anyway and was more than happy with a 4 km scramble along and up and down the forested hillsides, with occasional hot springs, spectacular bubbling and rumbling mudpots and intimidating fumarole vents, jetting out their sulphurous steam. All the time wondering how much of the intense heat came from the sun baking down from above or from the hellish inferno under our feet, colouring the hot soil all strange shades of yellow, green, red....

 
Then on to Rio Negro, one of the biggest rivers running down the volcano flanks, where Ros dipped into a series of hot pools and mud baths, with temperatures up to 40 degrees, before a cold dip in the river itself. Altogether a great experience and much more exciting than the lukewarm "hot" springs of Miravalle with the most impressive geothermal energy site in Costa Rica. Then the drive back over the hillsides between Miravalle and Rincon, through a large-scale wind farm, making use of the constant high winds in the area. And back to Rinconito Lodge where hosts Luis and David served yet another superb Costa Rican supper, before early to bed for yet another day's adventure, to be recounted by Ros tomorrow - keep on watching this spot!

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