Kununurra in the Kimberleys! 3235 km

Tuesday night, Sullivan Creek near Victoria River Crossing 15 35 S, 131 E, 2892 km

But it wasn’t to be, cabins all booked up tonite, so on I went, after another dip in the palm-fringed pool (no crocs). First another 100 km or so north to Katherine - original plans were to carry on another 300 km on to Darwin, change vans and then 300 k back to Katherine, but now I’m taking the same van all the way to Broome, saving a day or two (see Google map with next leg!) and so now start SW on the Savannah Way towards the really interesting bits of this first part of the trip – the Kimberleys and Australia’s extreme NW, aiming to meet Ros in Broome next Thursday.

Took a quick look at Katherine, found the big city (all of 11,000 people and several traffic lights!!!!) far too urban and stressy for this outbacker, depressing too, all the down at heel tribal people/aborigines wandering around disconsolate/dispossessed/distressed/waiting for the next drink – I don’t know – I’m not the one to come with great statements or conclusions – but very sad and uncomfortable to see. The Northern Territory (17 % of the total area of Ozz, but only 1 % of the population) has 28 % aboriginal population, but they sure seem to be in a bad way....

(Headline news in Katherine today “Ghan derailed by cow” – the Ghan being the relatively new across-Ozz rail express – Adelaide to Darwin (via Alice Springs, 2969 km & 42 hours...))

Into gradually more rolling hilly country – then suddenly the first real hills for over 2,000 km - lovely sandstone bluffs bordering the Victoria River – first found (by white people that is) in 1839 by the Beagle (on a later exploration trip than that with Charles Darwin on board) and named after-you-know-which-old -queen.... (although she was still pretty and young in 1839) And then I found thIs wildernesss camp site on the banks of Sullivan Creek (this one with crocs), from the sublime cabin to a great camping site, now been joined by 3 more vans, there’s even a fire pit I’ve been collecting wood for ever since Undara, looking forward to a spectacular starry night....


Wednesday night, Kununurra, western Australia, 15 46 S, 128 44 E, 3235 km

But that wasn’t to be either, it was a hot, sticky and hazy night, few stars, lots of bugs (I only saw in the guide this morning that “bush flies might be a nuisance here”.... QUITE..... Definitely not a good night and a very hot and humid day..... Decided the best thing to do was head on westwards to first decent town, which is here – Kununurra, just over the border between Northern Territory and Western Australia.

Stopped for (very) early morning coffee at Victoria River, the crossing itself sitting between spectacular (Precambrian) sandstone cliffs. Then on to Timber Creek, 200 km inland from the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf Coast and at the Beagle’s navigable limit. The museum at the old police station showing some of the history of the fighting between local tribes and the invading cattlemen in the late 1800s, and the Park & Wildlife Centre with an impressive Natural History display telling lots about animals, plants, everything except the geology!!! I complained to the ranger on duty in the nearby office and he agreed that it was a major lack – something I’ve noted most of the way across Ozz, having to work hard to find out the simplest things about local geology – He directed me to a great lookout site though, seeing the vast expanse of the Victoria River heading northwards to the faraway sea....

Ever on, occasionally between spectacular cliffs, and now the landscape littered with giant boab trees, far bigger than any I’ve seen in Africa, but the heat stifling, the van’s aircon struggling...... Through several tribal areas, big signs to the entrances stating bans on taking in alcohol and “certain types of pornography” .... not sure which types though....Finally to the border with Western Australia, here with a serious Quarantine Station and inspection of the van to make sure I’m not carrying an illicit cargo of nuts, fruits, veggies, flakes or honey......... Thankfully they didn't seem to worry that in all the heat I was feeling pretty fruity and flaky....) And clock 90 minutes back, all quite confusing...... now only 6 hours ahead of Norway.....

Finally into Kununurra, a pleasant place set between sandstone hillocks, but very hot – almost 40 degrees and very humid – definitely no more travelling for a couple of days as I shower and relax in air-conditioned luxury at the Kimberley Crocs backpackers’...............